A Classic Tavern On Campbell Avenue

By Steve Cooper
The Foodie Foursome

Steve Cooper

The history of Irish pubs in America began in the 1800s as waves of Irish immigrants arrived in the US seeking opportunity and refuge from famine and political unrest. They came with their music and food. Their passion for a shared space became a second home and a vital hub to connect with friends and family for comfort in this new world.

Irish pubs are common in the US – most cities have one.

Irish pubs were simple establishments that offered a familiarity of tradition, hospitality and heritage. These pubs and taverns were often family-run institutions that were passed down through generations.

In 1983, the Walsh family took what was previously a dive bar and transformed it into a truly magical space, Duffy’s Tavern. The themed décor features a warm Irish atmosphere adorned with rich, authentic antiques, sports memorabilia and globally inspired comfort foods with a focus on traditional Irish fare. Chris Walsh is the second-generation owner. His general manager is longtime friend Michelle Tafuto, and his head chef, Hector Perales, has been with the restaurant for 30 years. This tavern truly runs as a family and treats its patrons as extensions of their family.

Friends Kevin, Mike and Nancy joined me for our “Foodie Foursome” night out at Duffy’s. We entered the restaurant and were greeted by the warm, rich tones of the wood bar, furniture and lighting. It was obvious that the staff was friendly and attentive.

Our evening began with a selection of unique apps, starting with their signature stuffed clams, which has been on the menu for 40 years. These were very large shells stuffed with their own mix of chopped clams, scallops, red and green peppers, bacon bits and Swiss cheese combined with a moist bread stuffing. This was a perfect beginning to the evening.

Next, we sampled a couple of unique and tasty cocktails: the lemon meringue pie and the pear martini. They were both tasty and refreshing. The petite filet mignon crostini followed these. The pan-seared and delicately seasoned filet mignon was tender, with ample slices over seasoned toasted French bread with horseradish cream and chopped scallions. They were the ying to the yang of the next appetizer – Irish nachos.

The deep-fried potato wedges were not over-fried like most bar versions. They had plentiful potato filling and were smothered in melted cheddar-jack cheese, chopped scallions and smoked bacon, served with sour cream. If I was just meeting friends for a drink at their incredible bar, or with family for dinner, this would be the perfect starter.

We followed our apps with the steakhouse salad. The flatiron steaks were large slices of medium slices of over mixed greens. The salad was abundant and adorned with sliced red onions, glazed walnuts, grape tomatoes, crumbled Gorgonzola and a balsamic vinaigrette. This was a wonderful salad, fresh and chilled.

The first two entrees that arrived at the table were two Irish classics and some of my favorite comfort foods. The shepherd’s pie was served in a large hot vessel straight from the oven containing layers of seasoned ground beef, corn, carrots and celery topped with house-made mashed potatoes. It was finished with savory brown gravy. The combination was perfectly melded together for that classic taste without drying out or being overly saturated and fatty.

Next up was the grilled corned beef Reuben. This time-honored sandwich of rye bread was filled with ample layers of incredibly fresh house-made, and tender, corned beef. The meat was topped with melted Swiss, sauerkraut and thousand island dressing, with fries on the side. I have had many Reubens through the years, and this was one I would definitely order again.

Next up was a culinary composition of tender boneless chicken breast sautéed in a white wine reduction with sautéed red bell peppers, onions, capers and garlic. It was served with rice and green beans. The chicken Clarita, named after a past employee, was a beautifully constructed dish that is regularly rotated into their menu.

Last was the “gotta order” fish and chips, with a twist. This was a huge, thick piece of fresh and flakey cod encased and hand battered. This batter, with Smithwick’s Irish Ale, provided for a tasty and unique crust, deep-fried and served with the previously mentioned twist. That same batter was used to make some of the best onion rings found anywhere.

We finished our culinary trip to this wonderful tavern with a house-made rice pudding stacked with a mound of fresh whipped cream that was the perfect way to end the evening.

If you enjoy Irish pubs or just want to try a different restaurant, this will become a regular in your rotation. Duffy’s Tavern is located in West Haven at 305 Captain Thomas Blvd. They are open Tuesday through Saturday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. and on Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. They have a great brunch menu on Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. For reservations, call 203-933-9721.

Steve Cooper is a local, national and international award-winning photographer, culinary influencer and executive director of the Milford Performance Center. Contact him at 203-723-3672.