A High-Quality Find On Milford’s Pizza Scene

By Steve Cooper
Foodie Foursome

Steve Cooper

How often have you said, “Let’s go grab a quick bite out,” but you were not looking for fancy or expensive, and definitely not out of town? I think you will be pleasantly surprised by the New Haven Pizza Place.

The restaurant has a deceptively large dining area with a prohibition-themed bar area as well. It is family-friendly, yet a place where you can go with friends for a fun night out. Cindy and I went with friends Dan and Melissa, and their 1-year-old daughter, Mila, who was a delight. It was a Thursday night and there was a band playing cover tunes to the delight of a full room. I even ran into a couple friends who I had not seen in ages.

The New Haven Pizza Place is a true family effort that has historic roots in New Haven. It started in 1974 when owner Arsenio Bernardo’s dad, Luigi, opened his first pizza and bakery, Gigi’s, in New Haven. I first met Bernardo at his pizza truck at an event in Orange. The quality of those pies were akin to some of the best wood-fired apizza in New Haven. The staff is a well-oiled machine led by family.

We kicked off this Foodie Foursome with a variety of apps and pizzas. What arrived first were three small pizzas. The variety of classic and original-style toppings was amazing. The first was one of the best mashed potato, bacon and caramelized onion pizzas we have ever had. They featured a wood fired thin crust that would stand with any of the New Haven classics.

The second pie was a perfectly done red sauce margherita, featuring thinly sliced tomatoes, basil and garlic. The thinner tomatoes helped the ingredients meld together and not get soggy, as you find in many pizzerias.

The last of our pizza choices was the clam and garlic. Similarly to the margarita, this pie was artistically designed for maximum flavor without being overpowering. There was an abundance of minced, rather than lump, clam and garlic, which made every bite perfect. The one thing we noticed was the consistent tasty, wood fired crust that had perfect structure and the char that enhanced the taste.

Our next selections were a combination of classic Italian and signature apps, along with an American classic – wings. The wings were a breaded style but done so well that even those who prefer “naked wings” would approve. The coating was a thin, emulsive-like coating giving a good crunch to the skin while allowing the interior meat to remain moist. The outer crunch also provided nooks and crannies to capture and hold our chosen sauces. We choose sweet chile and buffalo for two different tastes, and both were so good we forgot to use the accompanying dressings.

This was a great time to enjoy a couple of signature cocktails. We had an espresso martini, which had that classic taste, and a pineapple coconut mojito. The unique combination of rum, coconut puree and fresh pineapple juice was a perfect refreshment with the wings.

Next were the arancini rice balls, fresh mozzarella and tomato and zuppa di mussels. The rice balls, rolled in breadcrumbs, were exquisitely deep-fried to a golden crust encasing an ooey gooey rice, pecorino Romano, mozzarella, ground beef and pea filling. These were just a bit smaller than a baseball and served on a plate with marinara sauce for dipping. The layered plate of alternating slices of fresh mozzarella and tomato was drizzled with a balsamic glaze and was a nice cold plate between selections.

Lastly for our apps was the zuppa di mussels. This plating featured an abundance of fresh mussels that were opened perfectly revealing a tasty seafood dish that was served with an incredible, buttery broth that had the perfect balance of butter, wine, garlic and splash of lemon. This was served with awesome pieces of garlic bread. This was a favorite appetizer; the bread dipped in the broth was wonderful.

We finished the evening with the eggplant casserole dinner, chicken parmigiana and stuffed shells. The shells were large, overstuffed with cheese and engulfed in their balanced marinara sauce. The same can be said about the chicken parmigiana, which was a large breaded breast, fried and smothered in mozzarella and sauce. The eggplant casserole dinner had tender, thin slices of perfectly prepared eggplant stacked and baked with mozzarella and sauce. They seemed to melt in your mouth. This was one of my favorite entrees, while Dan and Melissa’s 1-year-old daughter, Mila, loved the pizza and chicken parm.

New Haven Pizza Place is not just pizza. On Thursdays, there is a great energy with the entertainment while the rest of the week has a nice vibe. The restaurant has a brisk takeout business, too, which is separated from the dining area. They open at 11 a.m. and serve lunch and dinner seven days a week. They are located at 1377 New Haven Ave. in Milford. Call for reservations or take out at 203-693-3500.

Steve Cooper is a local, national and international award-winning photographer, culinary influencer and executive director of the Milford Performance Center. Contact him at 203-723-3672.