By Steve Cooper
The Foodie Foursome
Steve Cooper
The Breakwall is a terrific family-owned restaurant located across from the West Haven beaches on Captain Thomas Blvd. While their claim to fame had featured a large and creative selection of burgers, their new menu continues to evolve. They now have sophisticated entrees from land and sea, as well as many vegetarian and vegan options.
It was fun to dine with friends at a restaurant recommended to me by the Milford Regional Chamber of Commerce. I was joined by Dan, Mike and Courey for our “Foodie Foursome” night out.
As soon as we entered the restaurant, it was obvious that the staff was friendly and service-oriented. The restaurant was founded by Brendan and Katrina Snow just over one year ago. The Breakwall has a spacious dining area and expansive bar area that shows off their creative mixology and craft beers. The next phase of their vision is an outdoor dining area, which they are looking to open over the next few months.
Our evening featured a “chefs choice” menu designed by Katrina Snow. The variety of appetizers and entrees definitely displayed their culinary chops. We started off with the appetizers: Korean barbeque wings, garlic fondue, Italian meatballs and jalapeno dip. I happen to love Korean wings, and these were spot-on. While the sauce is important and theirs was really good, it was as much about the crisp of the exterior that captured the sauce and the moist interior of the meat. The garlic fondue was a blend of six types of cheese, roasted garlic and fresh herbs. This was combined into a molten fusion, creating a savory dip served with toasted bread.
The meatballs were large tender balls smothered with a red sauce atop a large slice of Italian bread cut on a bias and toasted with garlic. The jalapeno dip, one of their signature dishes, held different levels of flavor, teasing and pleasing the palate at the same time. The blend included melted cheddar, cream cheese, bacon, cilantro, caramelized onion and jalapeno and served with house-made tortilla chips. The flavor is enticing with just a hint of heat from the pepper.
Our second course started with a large house salad that came with a nice blend of crisp, fresh lettuce, shredded carrot, cucumber, olives, tomatoes and house-made croutons, served with four house-made dressings. We also shared a classic Caesar salad made with romaine lettuce, tossed with their dressing, and topped with shaved Parmesan and large croutons. This was followed by a sumptuous French onion soup. The onions were perfectly sautéed and then simmered in sherry and beef broth. This provided a nice depth of flavor with a hint of sweetness to the broth. The dish was accompanied by croutons and smothered in melted Swiss cheese. This will be a go-to choice if you like French onion soup.
We finished our second course with the tropical tuna bites. It had elements of both a ceviche and poke and was a terrific lead-in to the third course. The sushi-grade tuna in a mango salsa over crispy rice with avocado and a siracha mayo drizzle was a magical execution of flavors.
The entrees showed off a diversity in Breakwall’s menu as well as the skills of the chef. Featuring American fare with a creative twist, the menu’s variety covers comfort to elegance. The first of these was the ultimate macaroni and cheese. Their house blend of six cheeses, al dente pasta, smoked bacon, caramelized onions and fresh cream, all baked with a panko crust, was a decadent treat. Nonnie’s chicken was two large chicken breasts sauteed with roasted garlic, Italian sausage, onions, hot and sweet peppers in a white wine sauce and served with sautéed veggies and garlic mashed. The multiplicity of flavors was well balanced with a composed, smooth finish.
The mahi tacos were simply made with quality ingredients, elegant in their simplicity. The three flour tortillas contained huge pieces of fresh, tender and flaky mahi. The lightly battered and fried fish was accompanied by shredded lettuce, guacamole and spicy mayo. These were among the best fish tacos we have ever had.
Last up was the beef tips. These tender morsels were served with a mushroom and onion marsala cream sauce that was a rich fusion of tastes. This silky combination was served over a mound of light and fluffy rice.
The evening ended with cocktails and two signature desserts. The cocktails were maple bourbon old-fashioned with house-made syrup and blueberry bliss made with Tito’s lemonade, homemade blueberry lavender syrup and a splash of soda water. I am partial to Irish cream sherry. Their recipe blows Baileys out of the water on taste, richness and silky texture.
For the desserts, the fried Oreos were battered, fried and served with ice cream. They were extremely light and a surprise treat. Last was the best bread pudding we have had in a long time. The warm bread pudding was a textural explosion of flavors and the perfect way to end the evening.
If you have not experienced the Breakwall in West Haven, check it out with friends or family. Watch for the new patio, weekly specials, new menu items and their happy hour on Tuesdays through Fridays from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. They are open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from noon to 11 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 9 p.m. For reservations, call 203-535-1109. They are located at 305 Captain Thomas Blvd.
Steve Cooper is a local, national and international award-winning photographer, culinary influencer and executive director of the Milford Performance Center. Contact him at 203-723-3672.