By Steve Cooper
Foodie Foursome
Steve Cooper
When I moved to Milford in the late 1970s, there was a restaurant located on New Haven Avenue named Samos next to the Old Sundae House. After that, the restaurant became the new location of Jeffery’s Restaurant. That was there for a couple of decades until the restaurant became the new home of The Kimberly Restaurant. Tim “Timmy” Tsoponides, owner of the Kimberly, was ready for a change and collaborated with head chef Carmelo Garcia to create a new restaurant. Complete with a new Mexican design, this restaurant is a legitimate Mexican restaurant – El Toro. The menu shows off authentic Mexican cuisine.
The restaurant features a wonderful bar area with dining tables in a separate room from the main and private dining rooms, which have large windows overlooking a picturesque natural water view. The outdoor deck area allows for an al fresco dining experience. They have live entertainment on Friday evenings.
Rose and Janet joined Cindy and me for what was a wonderful culinary adventure. Tsoponides greeted us. As with most of our Foodie Foursome adventures, we started with apps, a salad, entrees and dessert. Our server made sure that our dining experience was paced perfectly. After we were seated, she brought a bowl of freshly made chips and salsa.
Our first apps were 12 buffalo wings, which had a crunchy exterior and a tender meaty interior. We chose the mild sauce, which was tasty with just a bit of heat. Next up was the “Botana,” which was a beautifully presented selection of nachos (large quartered and crisped tortillas smothered in cheese), cheese quesadillas and chicken flautas. These were served with sour cream and fresh guacamole.
During our first two apps, we had a few drinks: the house special “Don Timmy margarita,” a coconut mojito and mango mojito. While all were fresh, the mango mojito was our favorite.
Our last two appetizers were the ceviche and empanadas. Their take on the ceviche was refreshing, with a fresh combination of finely sliced vegetables adorned with cocktail shrimp, flawlessly prepared and butterflied, pre-cooked and marinated. These were placed atop large leaves of lettuce. The Mexican empanadas, El Toro’s signature app, were some of the best we have ever had. We had both the chicken and beef. They were fried, providing a light, delicate and non-greasy crispness. Their homemade chipotle mayo sauce was the perfect accompaniment to the empanadas.
We had the taco salad. The crispy flour tortilla basket was filled with mixed greens, jack and cheddar cheese, red onion, tomato, sour cream and fresh avocado with shredded chicken. While the filling was a beautifully crafted salad, the shell disappeared just as quickly. Like the shell of the empanada, it was artfully fried to create a delicate and crispy vessel that when broken up was perfect with their salsa.
We started off our entrees with the carne con arroz. The marinated steak was cooked to medium rare, sliced and served on a bed of the best Mexican rice any of us have ever had. We could not get enough. It was topped with oozy, melted Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese, onion, peppers, fresh sliced tomato, olives, pico de gallo, avocado slices and cilantro.
Next was their signature entrée, the sizzling fajita. One things that sets good restaurants apart from others is their ability to be accommodating with special requests. As I wanted us to try the veggie, steak and chicken fajita, the chef prepared this magnificent dish in a way we could have each. The veggie fajita, on its own, was terrific. It arrived sizzling, which captivated our senses of sight, sound, smell and taste. The veggies were plentiful, and the restaurant’s proprietary seasoning teased our taste buds. It was well balanced and made for a flavorful fajita plate. The grilled steak and chicken was served with rice, beans, guacamole and presented over the grilled vegetables. This was served with fresh tortillas. I am picky about my fajitas, but I would order any version of El Toro’s fajitas on a regular basis.
The next entrée was a classic veggie burrito. The large flour tortilla was expertly stuffed and wrapped with sautéed broccoli, carrots, zucchini onions, tomatoes and peppers. It was then carefully griddled to give a nice crispiness to the tortilla without ruing its structure as you cut or bit into it. This allowed the veggies and shell to work together to create a great bite. It was topped with melted cheese and green tomatillo sauce and served with that great rice, refried beans, guacamole and sour cream. All of the hot selections came on heated platters, which kept the food warm.
Last up was the birria, a traditional stew originating from the state of Jalisko, Mexico. The shredded beef was incredibly tender, slow-cooked and marinated with a medley of spices, chilies and herbs. It was served in an incredible broth-like gravy with a savory umami undertone that kept us going back for more. I almost wish there had been some bread to sop up the delectable remains.
We ended our evening with three different desserts. The creativity and visual presentation of the deep fried, chocolate stuffed burrito was as decadent as it gets. It was served with a scoop of chocolate ice cream, adorned with dollops of fresh whipped cream and drizzled with even more chocolate. Do not pass this one up. It was as good as it sounds.
Second up was the tres leches cake. It was made from a light sponge cake that had absorbed a mixture of evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk and whole milk. The result was a moist and sweet cake that was topped with whipped cream.
Last up was an absolute classic: flan. It was definitely one of the best we had ever tried. It was a smooth traditional Mexican custard with caramelized sugar on top, plated in a shallow pool of caramel with flowered dollops of whipped cream.
El Toro serves rich, fresh and flavorful dishes that celebrate the depth and complexity of incredible Mexican cuisine.
Watch for Friday night entertainment and Sunday brunch coming soon. For reservations, call 203-878-1910. El Toro is located at 501 New Haven Ave. in Milford. They are open from noon to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and from noon to 8 p.m. on Sunday.
Steve Cooper is a local, national and international award-winning photographer, culinary influencer and executive director of the Milford Performance Center. Contact him at 203-723-3672.