Reimagining Milford’s Citrus Restaurant

By Steve Cooper
Foodie Foursome

Steve Cooper

You know how sometimes things are not what they seem? Cindy and I have been to Citrus Restaurant many times over the years, as had our guests Meg and Joe. Usually we went to meet friends for a drink (at the giant horseshoe bar and ice rail) and a burger and fries or sandwich. Even on this evening we ran into at least a half dozen different friends. As we perused the menu, we were amazed at the creative versions of some very Americana fare.

The owner, Ken Benson, previously owned and operated a popular donut shop. In 2001 he opened Citrus in what was the Saybrook Fish House, Armory Square and Warner’s Harborview on Broad Street. What he created over 20 years ago has thrived among downtown locals. Our discovery that this establishment was more than bar food led us on a tasty culinary journey.

We started off with both an espresso and chocolate martinis. They were smooth and tasty with a signature design in the light foamy surface. Our apps were the first clue that this was going to be an unexpected treat. We decided on the tuna tartar, blackened scallops, shrimp tempura and crusted crab cakes. The tuna tartar was nice-sized freshly diced tuna, mounted by avocado slices and atop mango, chive, wasabi tobiko and a teriyaki drizzle. It was served with oversized house-made tortilla chips. Next up was the blackened scallops. They were fresh sea scallops perfectly charred on the top and bottom with a great internal doneness and texture inside. They were served with an avocado salad with crispy shallots, bacon dust and a tequila lime crème fraiche which was spot-on.

Next we had the shrimp tempura, which was perfectly created with a delicate yet crispy coating. It was served with a fuji apple salad with a sweet ginger aioli and citrus ponzu. The salad was divine and the pairing worthy of any Japanese restaurant.

Our last app was the crab cakes. They were corn chip crusted, which gave the scrumptious crab filling a crisp and tasty crust. It was served with a unique fingerling potato salad with a grain mustard aioli.

As we progressed to our entrees, we decided to share an organic greens salad. It was hearty, with greens, tomatoes, candied pecans, dried cranberries, sprinkled with gorgonzola and served with a fruity, acetic balanced passion fruit vinaigrette.

Our first entrée was a nine-ounce filet mignon, prepared perfectly to a medium temperature. It was flavorful and melt-in-your-mouth tasty. The filet was served with whipped Yukon gold potatoes, asparagus and a wonderful demi-glace. That was followed by the pineapple calypso barbeque salmon. The salmon steak was thick, with an expertly barbequed skin, yet moist interior flesh. It was adorned with a teriyaki glaze and bits of pineapple. The dish was served with a dome of jasmine rice, glazed asparagus and three barbequed shrimp – a flavorful fusion of tastes.

We also had two separate side dishes. The lobster mashed potatoes was perfectly smooth and creamy and loaded with pieces of lobster meat. The mac and cheese was constructed of al dente pasta shells coated in a creamy cheese sauce. While I could take an educated guess as to the types of shells, it was at least three or four varieties. It had a slightly smoky flavor and a rich and velvety complexity.

Our third entrée was a classic: chicken marsala. Two full breasts were served over whipped Yukon potatoes and asparagus. It was bathed in a luscious sauce of mushrooms, garlic and marsala wine. It was savory and on point. Our last selection was the grilled swordfish. It was a perfectly grilled white-meat swordfish steak. It was tender with a buttery glaze. The steak was served over lemon dressed arugula and a roasted corn and quinoa potato hash. It was elegant in its simplicity with balanced flavors.

A sauce can make or break your culinary experience, as it can create different levels of flavor. Citrus’s chef, Roberto Martinez, showed off his cooking skills in presenting a collection of well-constructed, well-balanced, great-tasting and well-plated dishes with a wide variety of sauces and fresh ingredients.

The evening concluded with a sweet explosion of confection and cake. The two house favorites are the crème brûlée and the chocolate truffle cake. The crème brûlée was creamy with an expertly caramelized top. The truffle cake was served with ice cream and fresh whipped cream. As you sliced into it, the warm, oozy chocolate almost tasted like an ice cream sundae.

The wonderful food, service and casual ambiance of Citrus is a great choice for meeting friends, family or a date night. There is also a private dining area for small groups and an outdoor deck as the season changes.

Citrus is located at 56 Broad St. in Milford, in the plaza behind the Old Harrisons Hardware building. For reservations call 203-877-1138. They are open Sunday through Thursday from at 3 p.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 3 p.m. to 1 a.m. including food at bar.

Steve Cooper is a local, national and international award-winning photographer, culinary influencer and executive director of the Milford Performance Center. Contact him at 203-723-3672.