By Pat Dray
The Garden Spot
Pat Dray.
Late winter and early spring are perfect times to prune your summer blooming trees and shrubs.
The ideal time is when the plant has some lighter-colored new growth but before the buds set. This gives time for the cuts to heal and new buds to form before rapid growth. Pruning in cool weather also means that the plant will be less stressed by the pruning and help you to avoid giving pests and diseases access to fresh cuts.
Pruning will help you to have a healthier plant since reducing the volume above the root plant means the undisturbed roots now need to provide water and nutrients to fewer shoots and buds, resulting in more vigorous growth.
Mother Nature did a great job of pruning this winter, as evidenced by the number of branches I’ve picked up after some of the windstorms. But now is the time for some additional work. If you didn’t sharpen and sterilize your tools in the fall don’t forget to take the time to do this now.
There are two basic types of pruning cuts – heading cuts and thinning cuts. Heading cuts remove the tip of the branch and will increase the growth past the cut, resulting in thick, compact growth and loss of natural form. This can be desirable for border hedges but over time creates a weaker plant.
Thinning cuts remove the branch near the point of origin of the main branch and will provide a more natural growth form and improved plant health. With thinning cuts, do not leave a “stub,” since that provides a place for pests to enter. Instead, prune as close to the main branch as possible without cutting into the collar where the branch originated.
The earliest work can focus on evergreens with needles, such as pine and juniper. Remove dead branches close to the main stem if necessary. Otherwise, just prune to a branch that has needles or leaves on it so that new growth will occur. For broadleaf evergreens, such as hollies and boxwood, you can focus on shaping the plant and controlling its size. Remove any excess branches as close to the main stem or leader as possible, avoiding old growth when possible since that may not regrow. Prune to “open up” the plant’s interior, keeping in mind it should be shaped in a Christmas tree form so that the lower branches get more light and air. This will help to prevent fungal diseases.
It’s easy to assess the form of your deciduous trees and shrubs. Since these specimens have dropped their leaves, you are able to identify crossed or diseased branches and poor growth patterns. Prune these using the same guidelines as for evergreens. Do not prune your summer bloomers in spring unless necessary, since you will be pruning off the buds of the summer flowers.
Healing from pruning occurs naturally if the branch collar has not been cut into. Dressing wounds is merely cosmetic and does not promote growth, so save your dollars to buy more plants.
Pat Dray is a past president of the Garden Club of Orange and a master gardener.